Bien sympa cette petite vidéo en Drift 🙂
John Wesley in California
André Falcão: Tell us about when and how you started surfing.
John Wesley: I started surfing when I was eight years old, my dad surfed so he went out a got me this insane board for 25 Dollars at a garage sale, I just remember that summer being so stoked when my parents would take me down to the beach and it was all I wanted to do.
AF: What was your perception of surfing during that time?
JW: Yeah when you’re eight you don’t really know much, I mean I surfed one spot, didn’t know about tides or swell, just knew if you go to the ocean there’s waves to surf, (laughs). But as I got older I became a lot more competitive and literally surfed every day, surfing was the only thing on my mind.
AF: Who were your main influences in that time?
JW: For a while, when I was 10-14, my main influences for surfing were all the guys in the Bruce Brown films, lead by Phil Edwards. At this age in my life I was really mesmerized by the fun summer-time vibe of striped shirts and high Levis and boards with D-fins.
AF: You still have your first surfboard, a 6’10” semi-gun. Why do you keep this surfboard? What do you like the most about it?
JW: I still hold on to that board mainly for memories, it’s a pretty wild shape when you look at it. With those six channels and all, but I just broke a side fin off it last time I rode it so its safe to say its retired for now.